History Of Children’s Clothing Essay, Research Paper

In relation to history children’s clothing is relative new idea. The

different fashions for children nowadays were none existent until very late

in history. Children are full of original sin so must be taught to be god

fearing good Christians; hence their growing up was encouraged vigorously .

Children began imitation of adults at an early age. They were dressed as

adults as soon as possible and encouraged to act mature.

In Tudor times little is known about children’s lives through records

because not worth recording high enfant mortality rate. The average age of

death was thirty years old. At the age of seven to nine children forced

into adult life, so little records are show of children . There were very

little portraits done for children and what exists show small versions of

adults.

Babies were normally wrapped in swaddling clothes, they believed that

wrapping babies would protect them from falls and help straighten legs and

spine. It was also convenient for people to carry the babies around

relatively more safely and if needed they were sometime hung up or a peg.

However, this constricted the baby and was not good for the physical growth.

They were some that even died of convulsions. These clothes were about six

inches wide and ten to twelve feet long . Supposedly the tighter a child

was wrapped the better arms were frequently bond as well.

Children are kept in these swaddling clothes until they are taught to use

their limbs . Teaching them is at the caretaker’s discretion and not

depending on the baby’s readiness, babies wore these clothes from six months

to one year. The child was about to move their limbs when their clothes

were changed, for example, when babies soiled themselves.

As time progress swaddling clothes become more elaborate. Clothes were

sometimes worn over the swaddling clothes. During Tudor times, there were

several different clothes needed to wrap a baby (for the wealthy). In the

case of the children of James the III, the children wore shirt, a square

band “bed”, which bounded from the breast to the feet and up again, a long

band of swaddling clothes (roller) and tube waistcoat that bound the arms,

and roller ad a blanket.

In England, in the Sixteenth Century, swaddling clothes were used

limitedly. There are only bound for the first several months and there are

put in dress like clothes in which the have a wrapper and loose fitting

diapers. In 1693 John Locke became a lobbyist for not bounding babies at

all. This thought was very controversial during the time. Little by little

binding babies in swaddling clothes were fading out but in the 1785’s that

swaddling was almost not practiced. However, there are still some people

practicing swaddling today in rural areas mostly Eastern Europe. The stay

band was worn the head and pinned on the shoulders to keep the head steady .

As swaddling become more unpopular than clothing were made for infants.

They were being to wear long clothes. These long clothes called robes were

sleeveless and thick like a coat. They also wore a shirt. They use a piece

of clothing called the blanket made with woolen fabric worn underneath was

linen held with pleats by wrapping a band or a waistcoat. Sleeves are tied

on separately. Later on sleeves were sewn on and this garment is now called

a frock. At end of Seventeenth Century, a cloak was added for outdoors. A

hood may have been worn attached or separate from it .

Caps were very important and used to protect the head of the infant tabbies

wore at least one cap. Many wore three caps of a forehead piece, and under

cap and a decorative cap . There was no distinction between colors, for

example: blue for boys and pink for girls. This was introduced in the

latter half of Nineteenth Century.

Nightwear was also introduced. It was thought children should were a

flannel waistcoat, a petty coat, a thin gown and a thin flannel shirt . A

cap was also worn at night.

Clothing for babies become more and more elaborate. The simplest of

clothes for a baby’s ware robe is four shirts, four caps, two frocks, two

bed gowns, two flannel blankets, two rollers, two pairs of stays and flannel

coats, two upper petticoat, twenty-four napkins (diapers) .

The gown, which opened at front, has replaced the frock, which opened at

back. These were baby boxes in each village for the poor. The babies of

the poor mostly did not have a difference in day or nightwear. The fabric

was most likely prints rather than embroidery, which the wealthy were more

likely to have. It as usually fine embroidery work called Ayrshire work.

For the first several months babies were carried a shawl or blanket while

indoor. Carriage with four wheels began to appear and babies were taken out

quite comfortably.

Caps for babies at this time had two shapes. The simplest cap that the

poor used an oblong shape of fabric folder to a square shaped by

drawstrings. The funding cap is made from one piece of material folded at

the crown and a gusset was cut and the top part folded down and gathered at

the back. The most fashionable style is made from a strip of muslin, the

ends sewn together and gathers into a crown runners and drawstrings help

make in conform to the head . Under clothes in the Nineteenth Century

contain of a shirt of linen or cotton it opened at the front and were

sleeved. The flannel or barrel came to exist which were in effect what the

blanket once was. Rollers were still used for support. The flannel

petticoat was now the stays, and the upper petticoat was similar to the

frock.

Flannel pitches were used over the napkins to protect clothes from being

soiled waterproof pilches appeared in the 1860’s but was thought as

unhealthy . The length of the clothes came into question because it

restricted movement. Blankets and shawls were still being used for babies

when outdoors. Cloaks and pelisses were also used pelisse was a cloak with

a caps. Cloaks and pelisses were a variety of heavy materials like velvet

and cashmere trimmed with fine materials most likely silk. There are

portraits beginning in the Sixteen Century when babies have coral with them,

it was in many forms for example in the form of a necklace or a stick.

These were used as teething devices.

As babies grow bigger they begin to learn how to crawl and walk swaddling,

elaborate long gowns and robes are quite unsuitable when this time comes.

These young toddlers are then given shorter clothes to wear. In the Middle

Ages, 13-14th Century, boys wore short tunics lengths varied. Coasts and

cloaks are worn as well over the tunics with a belt. They also had a round

fur hat. A hood was worn which covered most of the head came down to the

shoulders later is the fourteenth century boy dressed like their father

after they are swaddled. They wore a gipon (later known as a doublet).

Gipons were padded and tapered at the waist. It was button or laced at the

front. The sleeves were conformed to the arms and were buttoned from the

elbow to the wrist. A belt was worn at hip level. Nobles wore a more

elaborate belt with metal plaques adornments. Thigh-length hose was worn

which were tied under the gipon. Hose sometimes were soled so shoes may not

be worn. Both boys and girls wore the same shoes which were open and with

ankle straps. Piked shoes came in about 1395. Girls occasionally wore

tunics as well but normally wore plain gowns named kirtles. Kirtles for

girls had less d?collet?e necklines and looser sleeves. The garment was

tied at the back with lace that was from the neck to the waist.

Over the kirtle may be a side less coat. It had a low heck and was

sleeveless. The side was open from under the arms to the hip.

A cote-hardie may be worn over the kirtle or tunic. It was tapered and

with a low neck so it could be used similar to a pullover. However, there

were buttons in front. Girls at this time wore makeup like their mothers.

They plucked their eyebrows and painted their faces.

In the fifteenth century, boys wore gowns to their ankles with no belts.

Their fathers wore belts, which were thought as a privilege. The gown was

fitted at the neck with button in the front or the left side . Older boys

wore men’s clothing, which were a doublet hose and a short gown or called

the Houppelande over this lot that came to the knees or above, in adults the

gown came to the ground or ankles. The gown for boy had small round

neckline and a collar. The doublet is close fitting, padded, waisted and

short . A low square neckline was in style in the later half of the

fifteenth century. Boy were allowed belts and were worn at the hip in the

first half of the fifteenth century but at the waist in the second half

doublets were laced from 1400-1450 but buttons or heck and eyes came in, in

the 1425

Girls wore clothing similar to their mothers with slight differences. The

first worn a chemise or smock and over that a kirtle or a tunic. Over this,

the side less surcoat or also known as a super tunic is worn. Finally over

these items a gown but sometimes in special occasions a mantle is worn. The

headdresses girls wore are what differed from their mothers. Girls wore a

chaplet, which was a circlet with gems. In special occasion a silk or satin

wreath is worn or a padded roll with ornaments. The cap or Turkish Bonnet

was worn by both boys and girls. The hair for girls is worn down until

marriage when it is put up.

Children’s clothing the in the Sixteenth Century became more elaborate as

their parent’s clothes were more so. Long gowns or robes were worn by young

children. The gowns were sometimes sleeveless with wings. Wings were stiff

bands or rolls that resembled epaulettes. The child when wearing a

sleeveless gown wore a sleeved shirt underneath with ruffles at the neck and

wrist. These are the beginnings of the popular ruff. Aprons and bibs were

also worn.

A young boy at six or seven would begin to dress in an ankle length gown

with a belt at the waist. In the first half of the Sixteenth Century the

neckline was lower to show the ruffles and the sleeves were separate. Wings

were always present. In the second half this Century the gown was button

the waist and were sleeved. The ruffles become ruffs. At seven to eight

the boys would be wearing a gown but now with a doublet and maybe a costume

sword. A jerkin could be worn if the Boy has been breeched. Trunk hose

was also being worn as well.

Boys usually wore a long loose gown with hose at night for bed. They also

wore a nightcap. Shoes for children were closefitting, up to the ankle with

slashing done. They were squared toed at first but were later rounded. A

cloak was use for outdoors. Cap and hats were worn as well.

Girls wore gown to the ground, which included a petticoat and bodice. The

wings sometimes hid the strings that attached the sleeves to the gown.

Aprons and bibs were used by the younger girls. The necks had frills or a

turned-down collar or a d?colletage. In their wrists they had frills or

cuffs. They do not usually wear the ruff until they are older, in their

teens. The older girls dressed identically to their mother, wear such

things as ruffs, farthingales and long bodices, and of course there are many

more articles worn than this list. Gloves were always worn outside

Young girls wore coifs indoors while older girls wore draped hoods. Nobles

would wear coronet over the hood. French hoods were also stylish. Young

girls could wear their hair loose with ribbons. Beribboned headdress were

worn as well. The older girls wore tall hats out.

Young boys and girls wore very similar clothing in the beginning of the

Seventeenth Century until they are six or seven years old. They look that

same until they are about five. Both were frock with petticoats however

boys wear a doublet instead of a bodice. They button the garment in the

front and had a ribbon or belt tied to their waist. Sleeves were long and

were slashed, paned or hang sleeves. Hang sleeves allow hang strings to be

attached, which controlled the walking of the child. Ruffs were worn until

the 1630’s when laced collars were fashionable. In the 1670’s a long coat

replace the doublet for boy.

A boy after breeching wore a doublet and breeches and sometimes a jerkin

over the doublet. Later after the jerkin went out of fashion in the 1630’s

and the doublet a while later, a long coat and breeches were worn, very

similar to the fashions of men. Poorer families had to hand-me-downs from

the wealthy and they wore the doublet and jerkin even after if was

unfashionable. Some boys had muffs and they wore the gimsole, which was

high boot.

Until 1620 trunk hose and Venetian breeches were worn. New style breeches

came in and out style and worn with stockings. The Dutch breeches were

opened at the knees and in some instances with ribbon loops. They were

buttoned at the front and some had side and fob pockets. Cloak bag breeches

were full, oval and came down to the knees with ribbons tied there. The

Spanish hose was high waisted and closed by ribbons or just left hanging.

Stirrup hose or boot hose was worn to protect the stocking when riding.

Boots were worn for riding. Pumps made from soft leather were for dancing.

Everyday shoes were enclosed and had a large tongue which was decorated with

ribbons are buckles. Hats were worn by boys. They had large brims and

usually decorated with a feather or ribbons of sorts. The materials of hats

are usually felt or beaver. The Brimmed hats came into fashion in the 1690’

s. Cloaks were worn in a in various lengths. They were lined and

coordinated with the clothing that they were wearing. Cravats were a new

fashion and they were being worn by boys as well.

Boys wore nightshirts with an opening at the neck to the center front.

There was a narrow band at the neck and wrist and they were often decorated

with frills on neckline. Nightcaps were worn as usual.

Girls after dressing like to boys began to wear clothes closer to the style

of their mothers. They began to wear log pointed bodices and later in the

second in the second half of the Seventeenth Century back fastening bodices.

The sleeves were short and full until the 1660-1670 when they become narrow.

Some still used hanging sleeves even though when leading strings were

unnecessary for they represented childhood. The ruff was also used from

1625-1650 but was for older girls. After 1650 lace collars called falling

bands were used.

Girls wore caps or just used a band to hold their hair in place. They wore

a smock to bed, which, had low necklines, full sleeves to the elbow, and

gathered with a band. Neckline and sleeve had frill and lace to decorate

them. They did not wear hats did wear hoods in the later half of the

Seventeenth Century. Younger girls tend to wear shorter hoods, which were

bonnet like. Yellow was generally a fashionable colour where as blue was

more for commoners.

In the first half of the Eighteenth Century still wore frocks. Boys wore

the same style of clothes from the end of the previous century. They were

subtle changes though. A three-brimmed hat for boys and a hood for girls

were fashionable. Younger girls wore a shorter hood, which were similar to

bonnets. Boys were breeched at three to four years old. In the later

Eighteenth Century the age of three to eight years old were thought to be a

period of growth. They were not pushed to grow up as soon as they once

were. They were now more difference in the clothes between boys and girls

since breeching was earlier. Trousers were in fashion and boy began to were

then after breeching. With trousers they wore a greatly shortened frock

called vests and tunics. Slightly older boy wore jackets and soon the

jacket became attached to the trousers. The trousers became longer and the

jackets shorter. The waistline was below the chest. This garment become

the skeleton suit and was worn until 1820’s. Underneath the garment a shirt

was worn. The Collar was turned out and frills were usually attached.

Boys’ shoes were at first buckled and later laced. Stockings were still

worn by boys. Hats were wide brimmed with low crowns and were worn cocked.

Younger boys wore jockey caps. In early Nineteenth Century the style

changed again for hats and caps. A cap with a low crown was worn by young

boys, while older boys wore tall stiff crowns with thin brims. Hats were

made from beaver or straw. Double-breasted coats were replacing cloaks. At

night boys were still wearing plain shirts and a nightcap for bed.

Some girls wore one-piece dress with the bodice and skirt sewn together

while other wore a back-fastening bodice like the end of the last century

with a separate skirt. Petticoats were worn underneath. Sashes make it’s

debut and are worn to cover up the tucks of the bodice. The sash will last

into the Nineteenth Century. In the 1780’s skirts were still full but by

the 1800’s the skirts were much more narrow. The number and size of the

petticoats decreased. Some girls did not wear petticoats but instead

drawers or trousers. They were unseen until the hemline was raised in the

1810’s. In the mid Eighteenth Century turn back cuffs were in style and

later the washable cuffs were worn from the sleeve of the elbow. Sleeves

were short and puffed. The neckline was lowered in the early Nineteenth

Century.

Caps were still worn during this time but it had many changes for example

the crown was raising, widening and loosening. Ribbons and frills were

added matching the colour of the sash. The cap become less full at the

crown and after a while were small, close-fitting and had narrower frills

were added. Many girls were wearing bonnets or hats by 1820. Young girls

wore pumps, which were more rounded while the older girls wore the same

shoes as their mother.

After the early nineteenth century children began to have more identity in

their clothing. The styles were changing more rapidly and the difference in

clothing between boys and girls were greater. Children were not forced to

grow up as quickly for medicine was improving and they were not need to

procreate sooner. Their clothes were not adult like as soon as possible

like before.

Bibliography

Buck, Ann Clothes and the Child Holmes and Meier Publishers Inc.

NewYork: 1996

Cunninton, Phillis and Buck, Ann Children’s Costume in England W&J Mackay

& Co. Ltd, Chatham Kent: 1965

Ewing, Elizabeth History of Children’s Costumes Charles Scribner’s Son’s

New York

Rose, Clare Children’s Clothes Since 1750 B.T Batsford Limited,

London:1998